MGF Fuel Tank (1997 MK1)
See also Wolfgangs site with the cut tank (MK2 tank) Some more images

Stop Press !! (May 2002)
A very silly solution to getting rid of fuel smell should be this way, heard of a friend of a friend:
- remove the O-Ring in the purge-valve connection to the active-coal filter ;)
This is for sure not allowed due to invironmental rules, cause it stops building up pressure inside the fueltank.

More serious about the options to solve the fuel smell problem at some MGF

I got my lovely MGF back after carried out 20k km service in September 2001.
It doesn't smell any more from fuel. Thanks to the friendly workshop guys !!

Had complained about the fuel smell at the 1999 made car. Before anybody gets doubts I need to tell that I know very good from what I'm talking about. I have already suffered from another smelling MGF which got at last a new fueltank .

First works at my current cars fuelsystem were already done four month ago at the first service but without solution. So I asked my workshop to change the tank. They didn't, cause they had a new MGR advise on how to deal with that smelling cars. The advise should be rather new from August 2001.

I knew already from older bulletins the advised to:

- rework the rubber hose under the brown gaiter between tank and filler pipe if it's kinked
- change the cheap clamps at that rubberhose to jubilee clamps
- change the green coloured cheap clamp at the fueltank sender unit hose to a jubilee clamp
- check the large sealing of the sender unit (tank to sender body)
- check whether there is a non return 'flap' installed inside the filler pipes lower end.
- check the screws of the fuel tank cover plate behind the seats on the right torque. Screws should be tightened starting from the centre to the outer.
- remove the tank cover plate behind the seats and re-align the white coloured shredder between the tank and the cover plate.
- add a self adhesive foam tape if the existing sealing material is not placed right.

I was found that the screws from that cover were loose at my car. So this would have been the reason why fuel damp got into the car. In the case of loose screws the cover doesn't press the sealing material on the shredder tight to the body shell flange.

I found myself such a crap sealed shredder wrong attached when I disassembled my MGF wreck from 1997 the other year. This shredder wasn't seal to the body shell far down on the LH and RH side. Unfortunately I have no picture of the failed position, but only an overview to the parts and how they look.

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Best way to get to the location is from the engine bay. I would recommend to do works outside from the garage and not under hot sun. Dismantle the airfilter box and make loose the other stuff hanging around there. (Brake cables from the plastik clamps etc.)

Can't recall the way of fixture of the brown coloured gaiter, but that is the location of the 15cm long and strong connection hose. The hose I got in the cellar feels very hard. May be it is better for you to buy a new one. My workshop guy talked about dismanteling the hose and make it warm (in hot water?) to get it weaker for re-assembling.

All aroung I guess it is required to loosen the filler pipe in any way (two screws under the filler cap)

The fuel tank got changed to a new version in 1998. The part number WFE105220 got not changed. See above the instructions to check all other troubles before you go for a new tank.

App. in the end of 2001 got another bulletin written with the instruction to measure CO2 damp below the car. The brether hole below the tank and near the centre tunnel is the location where to measure. It is said that MGR would change the tank if the concentration is above 100ppm. This only for cars made after August 2001 and if still under warranty terms.

Overview

from the other side

The fuel filter

Fuel Filter and fuel line

MK1 connector to the fuel pump (sender unit).

Front view with AMP spade connectors inside

This connector got changed to a different version (MK2) from VIN YD522573