MGF / TF Heizung / Heater box and Resistor Pack |
Heater Control - Heater box replacement
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31.10.2007,
17:39 Uhr (Edit 2018) Herbie. Du brauchst 3 unterschiedliche Widerstände ! Ich hab den alten Draht ganz rausgeworfen und dann 3 neue Keramikdrahtwiderstände
von Conrad
genommen (11 Watt, sonst brennt das durch !): Da die Widerstände recht lang sind, habe ich da noch ein kleines Stück Draht drangelötet und dann ab dafür in die Kaskade eingelötet Jeder sagt etwas anderes wegen den Werten. Mit den oben genannten funktionieren alle 4 Stufen bei mir prächtig, ohne Probleme und die Lüftergeschwindigkeit ist wie beim Original. |
Check instructions for a RHD car at Tony |
Vorwiderstand (ca. 15 ??? EURO) |
Resistor
pack Huge 23 quid for the part |
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Links die in den Luftstrom eingebaute Widerstands Kaskade. Die Kohlen sind hinter der rechten Abdeckung | Resistor pack on the left side. Cover of the motor coal on the right side. | |
commutator coals | ||
Resistor pack ;-) |
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below
briefly descibed by Martin Guildford at the MG Cars BBS UK. |
From:
Martin Guildford ......... h@virgin.net on 02 December 2000 at 17:50:10
(UK time) FIXED IT! - Having taken out the glove compartment for easy access. I then removed the resistor block from the side of the heater module (just above the motor). To my surprise they were not power resisitors fitted to any heat sinks, but coils of resistor wire that are designed to sit in the cold air intake flow of the heater (so they are cooled). This is very old fashioned and of course not at all energy efficient. Also, I removed the right angled air duct that takes the incoming air from in front of the screen down in to the heater module. I could then see with a torch indeed there was leaf in the blower mechanism. Not big enough to stall the motor, but enough to make an annoying flutter noise. I am surprised there is no grid on the input to stop leaves entering. I have seen this on MGB's so it's not a new idea. Moving back to the resistor module, the first resistor (resistance wire coil) was blown. The other two were a little caked with white crap, like an old fashioned electric fire that has been used a lot, so I just cleaned them up a bit so as to get a better air flow round the wire. Having done a few tests, I found that a piece of resistance wire coiled up for about a value of 1.5 Ohms was adequate to repalce this burnt out one. (There are 3 resistors all in series. All of them in series equals speed 1). The resistor block needs to be fitted back in the air flow for any prolonged action as it would just glow and burn out if there is no air flow over it. Perhaps this could be a problem if your air intake is covered with snow. Anyway, so far so good. I like the idea from Carl, but all good ideas come from Sweden nowadays, that's why I work for Ericsson and my wife has a Volvo. See ya |
Übersetzt von Martin.Bronk, 16.04.01: Ich habe das Handschuhfach
für einen einfacheren Zugriff herausgenommen. (Bei Linkslenker NICHT
nötig!!) |
Heizungsventil und Knöpfe | Heater valve and knobs | |
Heizungs Schalter Block mit montiertem Alarmsteuergerät | heater switch board with attached Alarm ECU. (top down view) | |
Direction as assembled | ||
Alarm ECU removed. | ||
control segment for the air flap | ||
Control segment for the heater valve | ||
Heater Switch connector | ||
Heizungsventil | Heater valve segment | |
Sicht
aus dem Fahrerfußraum auf eine demontierte Heizung. Natürlich braucht zum Tausch der Widerstandsdekade nicht die Heizung demontiert werden. Die Stelle ist im Fussraum oberhalb des Gaspedals zugänglich ;-) |
spot
on a dismantled LHD Heater in correct assemly direction. Of course, you don't need to pull off the heater for the resistor pack change, Access is from the co-drivers footwell. |
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Vorderansicht | Front view (LHD Heater!!) |
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