MGF Rear Wheel Bearing, Radlager MGTF

MGF/TF Rear Wheel Bearing - A Rough Guide (K.Jackson 10/10/02) , enhanced by Dieter, including hints from Stefan B. (Lotus Elise)
Parts required Old MG Rover P/N GHK 1366 New MGR P/N for all MGF/MGTF and Metro is RFM000050 hub bearing kit , including hub nut and 2 retaining clips Wheel bearing / Radlager / Timken JRM 3938A QH QWB661* QH QWB594 Technostart KIT661 SKF VKBA1452 * AP WBK405 BRT BRT994* BRT BRT907 ABK ABK994 RING RWB105 * BK BK446 NK 751211 Timken JRM3938A The nut and circlip if not included with the bearing kit EJP7738 Nut-stake - R/H thread - front/rear suspension hub ADU9665 Circlip (2 of required) http://www.technostart.co.uk/ (bearing Kit cross reference) identical bearings are / Baugleich i.S. Radlager sind: Rover 111i 1.1, ab 05/90, front only /nur vorne Rover 114i 1.4, 05/90 bis 1995,front only / nur vorne Rover 114D 1.4D, 05/92 - 1995, front only /nur vorne Rover 115D 1.5D, ab 1995, front only /nur vorne Metro 3 & 5 Door (Apr 90 VIN XP100001 on) front only Rover Maestro 1.3/1.6/2.0/2.0D, ab 11/88 (ch.378221-), front only /nur vorne Rover Metro 1.1/1.4, 05/90 - 1995, front only /nur vorne Rover Metro 1.4D/1.5D, 05/92 - 1995, front only /nur vorne MGF 1.8i 16V/VVC, ab 1995, both, vorne und hinten MG Maestro 2.0, ab 11/88 (ch.378221-), front only /nur vorne MG Montego 2.0i/Turbo, ab 11/88 (ch.256309-), front only /nur vorne Rover Montego 1.3/1.6/2.0/2.0D, ab 11/88 (ch.256309-),front only / nur vorne Vauxhall VX220, ab 2000,both /vorne und hinten Opel Speedster, ab 2000, both /vorne und hinten Lotus Elise 1.8i, ab 1995, both/ vorne und hinten Nissan 280ZX, 300EX, (S310 series), 1990 onwards
Tools required Socket set - notably 8,12,13,14,15,17,19mm, and 1 ¼" socket for hub nut Torque Wrench Copper/Nylon Mallet Large Philips driver Small punch Access to workshop Press Jack up rear of car, leaving handbrake ON. Chock the front & rear wheels on the side opposite the one you're working on. Lower onto axle stand or sizeable block of wood. Remove wheel. Using Torque wrench and 1 ¼" socket slacken centre hub nut. The nut will have been punched into the keyway on the driveshaft, so using the punch, try to open it back out before undoing centre nut. It will be VERY tight! Note: if it's not tight, this may be the cause of your noises - tighten it up really tight, refit the wheel, and see if it's cured.
[NOTICE Uee stable axle stands instead of that dangerous bricks !!] :)
Once the hub nut has been removed, release the handbrake, and remove the calliper, brake pads and then the calliper mounting bracket. Remove brake disc. This might be quite tight if it's not been off for a while. Hit from behind with a mallet, but try to bring it off squarely. Once the disc is removed, undo the bottom anti-roll bar bolt and slacken the top one to allow the link to rotate out of the way. Remove the ABS sensor (8mm socket), and tie it out of the way.

Raise the hub assembly slightly using the jack, in order to take the strain off the lower attachment points. Remove the nut on the track-rod end, and hit the end of the stud with a mallet to knock the tapered shaft out from the housing. (Using a hammer may damage the threads) Remove the trailing-arm bolt. This is tight all the way off as it's Loctited in.
Oh, Oh, again the bricks ;)
Lower the jack, and undo the top nut. There's a tab washer which will need flattening down before you can undo it. Once the nut has been removed, hit the top of the stud with the mallet, the shaft is tapered again, and the whole housing should then drop. Slide the housing off the end of the splined drive shaft.
Hub Assembly removed.
Hub assembly. [NOTICE This is an old clout and not K's current bathromm carpet] ;)
You will then need to use a large press, to press the hub out of the bearing from behind, and then press the bearing out of the housing. Be sure to remove the two bearing retaining clips from the housing before trying to press the bearing out! Press the new bearing into the housing, fit the retaining clips, and then press the hub into the bearing. As always, refitting is a reverse of removal! Seriously, if you've got this far, putting it back together is a doddle. Just remember to put loctite on the trailing arm bolt, fold the tab back up on the top nut washer, do the centre nut up VERY tight, and punch the rim of the nut into the keyway of the drive shaft. The piston in the brake calliper will retract by turning it clockwise a few turns. Good luck. Zuerst oben und unten anpacken und rütteln - klapperts ? ... dann ist das unter Kugelgelenk defekt. Austauschen lassen, Spur einstellen Wenn es da nicht klappert, dann ebenso heftig rechts und links das Rad packen und 'waagerecht' rütteln. (Ist schwierieger, weil das Rad jetzt ja auch lenkt) - klapperts ? .. dann ist das Spurstangenendstück defekt. Austauschen lassen, Spur einstellen Wenn's immer klappert, dann ggf. Radlager, oder alles vorgenannte defekt.

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