MGF TF coolant level sensor

check @ Tony for a useful electronics circuit to get a delayed signal

Roland Heider Elektronik

[Click to enlarge image] Material
1 Sensor PCJ000040
1 Behälter PCF000140
1 Piepser 12 V , max 20mA , # 63S1120 (20S1120)
2x ca. 90cm Meter Kabel
(update 2010 siehe Conrad 35mA geht auch)
ca. 1,30m Kabel (min 0,75qm Autolitze)
2 Stück isolierte 2,8mm Flachstecker (rot)
1 Abzweig-Quetschverbinder (rot oder blau)
Stück Schrumpfschlauch (isolieren der Lötverbindung Kabel an Piepserleitungen)

original Kühlmittelbehälter
original Kühlmittelstandsensor
12V Piepser mit geringer Stromaufnahme

Material needed
1 Sensor PCJ000040
1 expansion tankPCF000140
1 buzzer 12 V max 20mA , # 63S1120 (20S1120)
2 pcs app 90cm long automotve cable
2 pcs 2.8mm isolated Faston Crimp connectors
2 pcs of 20mm shrink tube
some cable ties

original Coolant tank
original coolant level sensor
12 V buzzer (low current type !!)

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Fest eingedrückter Sensor

pushed in level sensor

Es sollte nur Kühlmittel bis zur Max-Marke im Pott sein.
Der Kühlmitteldeckel muß drauf sein.

- zwei Kabelschuhe für Sensor an die Kabelenden crimpen und mit Schrumpfschlauch das blanke Steckteil überziehen.
- Kabelschuhe auf Sensorkontakte stecken. Auf festen Sitz und Kurzschlußfreiheit achten.

The coolant level should be normal at the old tank seam before you start.
The coolant cap must be screwed in place

- Crimp the both connectors to two wire ends and isolate the open metal sorface with shrink tube
- push crimp connectors on the sensor spades and see for no short circuit and tight fitnent
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- die zwei Schrauben am alten Pott rausnehmen (10er Steckschlüssel)
- Pott hochheben und die Klemme unten aufdrücken und zurückschieben

Jetzt kommts:
Den Pott jetzt so hochheben, drehen und kippen, daß der untere Abgang nicht mehr von Kühlmittel bedeckt wird.

Pott so festhalten, und nun den unteren Schlauch abziehen, Daumen drauf !!. (drei Tropfen gehen daneben)
Den alten Pott hochnehmen und so halten, dass nix rausläuft (2. Person), oder wie auf dem Bild zu sehen auf die Seite legen

- remove two screws M6 holding the old tank in place (10mm socket)
- Lift the tank to get access to the lower hose clamp
- open the clamp with a gripper and move it down on the hose

Now the trick:
Lift and turn the tank out in a manner that the lower hose is no longer covered with coolant. No worries with loosing coolant cause you have on the drain hose and the coolant cap.

Hold the tank in this position and pull off the lower hose. Be quick and close the open hose with one thumb. (Some drops of coolant will get lost, though.
Now lift aut the tank and move sidewards without pooring coolant out of the open lower outlet joint.
A second person might be helpful.

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Den neuen Pott nehmen und auf den unteren Schlauch stecken.
- Schlauchklemme aufdrücken und hochschieben

Take the new tank and push on the hose.
(Take your thumb away before pushing on) :o)

- Use the gripper to put back he hose clamp, or just replace with a better from Stainless steel.
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- Pott wieder in die Halterung setzen. Etwas Kühlmittel läuft von unten hoch

- Move the new tank down and see coolant run in from below
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- der Bolzen gehört in diese Bohrung


- Check on getting the tank-pin into the correct position
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- Von 2. Person den alten Pott abnehmen und den Auslass des alten Behälters über den Einfüllstutzen des neuen Behälters führen


- Get the old tank and lead the open outlet careful over the new tank filling hole.
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- Kühlmittel aus dem alten Pott einfach in den neuen reingießen (unterer Abgang)
- dünnen Schlauch oben am alten Pott abnehmen
(Klemme aufdrücken zurückschieben, Schlauch abziehen)

- let the collant pour down from the old tank into the new one.
- take off the uooer thin hose from the older tank
(use a gripper to open the clamp)
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- oberen Schlauch beim neuen Pott draufsetzen

- swap the thin hose over to the new and get on the hose clamp
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- Nun den Kühlmitteldeckel rüberwechseln

Mechanik ist fertig

- swap the coolant cap over from the old tank to the new
[Click to enlarge image] Softtopscheibe rauszippen und nach aussen legen - unzip the rear window to get access to the engine cover carpet
[Click to enlarge image] Einen Draht des Sensors an Braun-Rosa Kabel (+) des ECU aufschalten (Stecker des Aktivkohlepott) (Abzweig-Quetschverbinder) lead one wire of the sensor to the brown-pink (+) cable of the ECU and use a Y-bypass wire joint to connect it to this wire.
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Zweiten Sensordraht auf bekanntem Weg zum Fahrer Gurtaufwickler führen (links durch Kotflügel >> Ovales Loch in Hutablage)

- Schrumpfschläuche auf die Anschlußdrähte des Sensors schieben
- roten Draht vom Piepser an Sensordraht löten
- schwarzen Draht des Piepsers an Masse.
Schrumpfschläuche drüberschieben und erhitzen

Lead the second wire from yoer sensor along the known way through the wing to the seat belt assy.

- put shrink hose pieces on the wires
. solder the RED (+) wire of the buzzer to this wire
- Connect the black buzzer wire to any ground bolt
Söip shrink hose over solder joints, heat up to get it tight.
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Mein Piepser liegt unter dem Teppich im Freiraum hinter dem Gurtwickler

Geht auch mit ner 12V Lampe, wenn einen das Piepen stört.

Zündung an
Kühlmitteldeckel öffnen
Mit Kugelschreiber/Schraubendreher...
... den weissen Schaumring (schwimmer) im Pott runterschieben.
Piept nicht mehr

Alle OK Kühlmittelstand checken und Deckel drauf

I put the buzzer at my car just to some free space behind the seat belt assy

- ignition on
- open coolant tank
- use a ball pen or long screwdriver ....
.... move down the white coloured swimmer inside the tank ....

Meeeeeepppppp!! Noise should appear
Release swimmer: Noise should be gone

Well done, you have got it ready. Check the coolant level and finish works.

  Another option for MGF MY2000 on with ECD3 ECU from:
J Nuttgens, Hampshire, United Kingdom Posted 11 April 2007 to the MG cars BBS

Hi all,

I've just fitted a coolant level sensor to my MGF, using a slightly different and simpler approach to the (already excellent) instructions on Dieter's website:

I used the late-type expansion tank and sensor as per the website, but instead of using a buzzer, I connected the sensor into the circuit for the "Engine Bay Overheat" warning lamp. This involves minimal wiring - the sensor simply connects between earth and the wire from the ECU to the warning lamp. On the VVC model this is pin 31 of the top ECU connector, green wire with red stripe (may be different on an MPI). No tricky wire routing or dismantling of interior trim required!

The warning light will still work as normal if the engine bay temp gets too high or the AAT sensor fails, and you still get the lamp-check when the ignition is turned on, but it will also light up if the coolant level drops. I prefer this solution over the buzzer, not just because it's easier, but because there's no risk of failing to hear the buzzer if you're pushing on a bit (especially with the top down) or have the stereo turned up loud! :o)

The only drawback is that the light coming on could mean one of two different faults - but since you're going to need to stop anyway, it shouldn't be too much of a problem...

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Installation at MGTF original connector markings and swimmer with magnet markings and swimmer with magnet
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the sensor (Low Load Reed Contact inside) push hard until it slips on Looks like this press on Y-Bypass
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take away and close with thumb attach lower hose to new bottle put it back down gets down there
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gets there pour down coolant old to new attach upper hose Ready
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Brown-Pink, (+) to sensor Live after ignition on. Brown-Pink unzip the window Wire Way
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Tröte für Sensor
Beeper gets hidden below the carpet    

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© 2005 - 2010 Dieter Koennecke

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