MGF + Carls modifications

6. When one or several positions on the heater dies one resort is to fit a Pulse Width Modulator that does the same job but lasts forever…
overview on more space for your feetthe cut away part of the fuse coverdismantled to cut

For tall enthusiasts with large feet ;)
Cut away for more space in the footwell

Screw off the fixture bracket for the fuse cover and cut away app 3cm of the fuse cover plate. Attach the fuse cover only with both 'screw rivets'.


<advertising for Veedol Oil only at continental cars ?
electric boot lid opener
280mm disks and green stuff at the front
Switches in both door panels to interupt the mirror heater

the clean exhaust

1. The exhaust system has been with me for over 6 years now looking like this. It is a big improvement over the original system and all that has heard it thinks it is a genuine sports system ;o) Much more free flowing and a nicer sound…. The internals are as the drawing on your site.

well used DIY cat bypass pipe with additional lamba sensor

2. The original lambda sonde is of no use if one wants to get the REAL reading of lean or rich running. This because the MEMS inserts a pre-chosen voltage over the sonde when going for full throttle… So the only way to tell is to have a second one, preferably placed in the bypass tube. Any bar-graph readout will do, there are several simple DIY ones described on the net. This one solved the "flat spot " problem.


May be this site can help to DIY the application :) (thanks Rob)


various NTC and PTC temperature sensors

one of added instead of the rear bleed bolt
3. There are several good quality temp. sensors on the market that can be used for additional temp control. After fitting the "remote thermostat" I fitted one in the former bleed screw in the engine department. This gives total control of the coolant temp at the inlet side. The re-worked cooling system now varies +/- 3 deg. C from idle to full load!!

shielding works EMC protection at the main harness.

shielding works , clamp + and minus cable together with cable ties

cable clamp rivet

4. The induced magnetic field as well as the voltage diffs between front and rear are best fixed by shielding the main cable at the drivers side and adding a real earth return from the battery to the generator (or at least to somewhere on the engine block).For the main cable assy. I used ordinary alu foil that after another layer of PVC-tape was earthed at one point ONLY. Best place is close to the big rubber grommet that goes from the cabin into the engine compartment. No more "sleepy" left foot on long journeys and less interference on the radio as well….

C.R.B. Simeon, Hampshire, United Kingdom

MG's in the last 30 years have had a reputation for rusting out in suspiciously quick time. I think the MGB put the battery at the back and the generator/alternator at the front using only the bodywork(which rotted quickly by coincidence) to connect them. The MGF does it the other way around with the battery at the front and an even juicier alternator at the 'mid' - but to my way of thinking just as risky. The coolant pipework(already critical for HGF) is reported to rust out(potentially disastrously)in shockingly quick time. This afternoon I just spent a couple of hours making a 300A wire connection between the alternator and the battery, tied off neatly to existing routes.
I don't know why but it feels sensible as a precaution. No boat with an engine sets out without a sacrificial anode and so should no car - just don't make it your bodywork!
Carl in Sweden posted something mentioning this a couple of months ago and I am sure he is right but like I said - I don't know why.
Anybody out there?
Posted 10 April 2006 at 16:13:46 UK time
Carl, Sweden.

Hi Charles,
yes, I think it is a good measure to avoid the heavy currents that flow in the body of the "F" ! There are some pictures and info on Dieters site on how I did it. Basically just a insulated heavy multistranded wire from the battery to the generator running under the car .
All this was triggered by finding that on a totally pampered car that never seen any rain,only running in the summertime and handwashed and run warm after every wash there was heavy corrosion on the lower part of the radiator !! Measuring with equipment borrowed from work it was found that heavy currents circulated in the body. On top of this there is no ground cable from the alternator,soley relying on the dodgy contact made by the altenator bracket...
I also reduced the magnetic field and disturbance on the radio by shielding the main cables running along the left sill under the carpet (on a LHD car) from the rear to the front panel,relays and fuses. This can be seen at Dieters site.
BR, Carl.
Posted 10 April 2006 at 23:18:26 UK time
Charles, Hampshire,

Thanks for the reply. I wish I could explain exactly why we should all be doing this simple measure to preserve our 'Fs'. It is so obvious if you think about it and is bound to have contributed to or been the principal cause of many simple HGFs, starting problems, radio reception and alarm issues over the years. It will become more of a problem and any damage alresdy done cannot be reversed(my VVC was 10 this year). People even report that the aluminium aftermarket replacement radiator pipes start rotting quite soon after fitting.
It is much cheaper than low coolant level alarms and about the same time to effect. Can we prove it to anyone? - hence both the title of my thread and the 'general' rather than 'technical' listing. Maybe somebody will hear............summer is coming - a good time to be rolling about in the dirt under your 'F' :O)
Posted 11 April 2006 at 07:11:23 UK time
carl, Sweden.

All this is well known within the industry. Big players as Volvo have made this alteration ( here engine at front ,battery at rear close to rear seats)
The main objective to NOT rely on the body as main earth return for them was the very high magnetic field induced at the drivers side during driving.
Many drivers complained about "sleepy legs" despite the best seats in the class.After the re-build things were normal again.
But of course it is all down to cost,copper is expensive and the cable needs to be heavy to have any effect.
The induced field is of course the result of high currents in the car body.This was of minor concern years ago when the electric system on cars were simple and some got away with 2 fuses only (The Mini) ;O).
/ Carl.
(c) copy from a thread at the MG Cars BBS

VVC coils location changed
5. The ignition-coils are much happier where they are now, no dirt or water that can make start-problems.


Heater control circuit

6. When one or several positions on the heater dies one resort is to fit a Pulse Width Modulator that does the same job but lasts forever…

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