The magic pump for the
MGF and MGF
Trophy suspension works |
Introduction
When I purchased my
second hand 1996 built MGF in October 1998 I nearly knew nothing about
the combined spring and damping system developed by Sir Alex Moulton.
Nearly nothing, only that my MGF must have a problem with his current
suspension setup.
- It was wobbly without moving the steering from right to left on accelerating.
- At about 80 mph the steering began to shake and on windy conditions
the same happened
- I got fear to travel faster then 80mph because it nearly was blown off
the road.
What now ? Reject
the car ?
No, I'm an engineer ! Not educated for car works but with wide skills
in several mechanical technologies. I should give up ? Never ! I tried
to find friends succesful on the Internet Michael Bender showed me with
his Website whats going on there, Great !!
I explored the UK based BBS, found hundreds of entrys on suspension threads
and got my first blame there on asking stupid questions :
' is that for the hydragas system used pump equal to a Citroen cars pump'
and things like that. ;-)
My MGFs suspension was corrected by a friendly dealer. I learned a lot
at the BBS and while serving my own technical based Website.
The suspension system got my favourite technical discussion term. I ever
used to find out how things work at my cars not only to repair it myself,
but as a hobby.
This mystery hydragas system must be worked out.
It lasted about 3/4 years until I got contact to Carl, from Sweden. He
was interested too in collecting each and everything related to the MGF
and had already a lot of experiance. Rob Bell, Ted Newman, Thomas Ohms,
John Thomas, Tony Smith, Kes from Kidderminster and Roger Parker and some
more. A kind of team of well known names put their little bit to this
summary of one year research on things that nobody else in Germany was
seams to be interested in.
Now, what is it good for ? Only for my fun on finding out things that
nobody 'should know'.
I did it and do it because it is possible.
The other reason: Improving my english language skills. Thats all.
See this Webside and enjoy it.
Rob's
webside on hydragas suspension principals
Building
and use of a home made evacuation system [under
construction]
Four wheel alignement
of the MGF [under construction]
Pump
Gallery
Liquid Levers
Pumps
simple version *pressure only* at Liquid
Levers and ....
the very Hydravac (2004) including vacuum function, 18G 703Q .
© 2001 Manfred Kribbel ..
from inside
Spyros :)
Same Pump at Hanah's workshop in NZ
sticker on earlier 18G703X
with 4 valves on how to set the valves
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Liquid Levers Innovations,
sales_at_liquid-levers.com
Unit1, Mountfleurie Ind Estate Lerven, Fife, KY8 4AX, Scotland UK
Vacuum Hydrolastic
Suspension Pump
[Part-number: HYV - Rover ref. 18G703Q]
1: Initial procedure
Fill the machine reservoir with the correct fluid
Set the valve to pressure
Make sure that the vehicle is on level ground with the handbrake off
Remove dust cap on car hydrolastic / hydragas connector
Fully slacken tap T (if available) by turning anti-clockwise, also
slacken bleed screw by turning anti-clockwise two turns
Screw on the body of the low loss connector as far as possible (by hand
!)
Operate the pump handle to fill the plastic tube, thenm close valve T (if
available)
Connect the vehicle hydrolastic / hydragas fluid by turning tap R fully
clockwise
2. Raising trim height
If merely increasing trim height, set valve´to pressure and pump up
to the required height / pressure
3. Checking trim height
Roll the car back and forth and bounce the suspension before checking the
vehicle trim height. Adjust downwards, if required, by sliding the valve
to depressurise until the required height is achieved.
4 Depressurise the System
Slide the valve to depressurise
WARNING - Both the pressure and vacuum gauges
are isolated during the depressuriseing sequence. Before opening the system
on the vehicle, slide the valveto pressure to check the pressure is zero
5. To vacuum the system
Depressurise the system; making sure no pressure is left by returning the
valve to pressure and checking that the pressure gauge is at zero
Slide the valve to vacuum and operate the pump till the required vaccum
is reached.
The fluid from the vehicle will be returned to the reservoir. If there is
any doubt about the fluid drawn from the vehicle, empty the reservoire and
dispose of the fluid correctly - treat as brake fluid or anti-freeze.
WARNING - If pressure is within the system if
the valve is put to vacuum position, damage to the vacuum gauge may result.
6 To releive Vacuum
Slide the valve to depressurise. Fluid wil be drawn back to the system from
reservoire. Make sure that there is adequate fluid in the reservoire. Remember
only to use the correct fluid.
7. To pressurise the system
As step 2
pdf
instructions |
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Tims pump (obsolete no more production)
(ALBA )
ALBA
Instruction manual
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Easy grease pump with bolt on truck tyre adapter might work to, as shown
by Andreas K.
See at Lumatic i.e E500 |
See what charless from the
UK has got in 2010 at
the MGF Register Forum Y 01.2010
It is an oil gun with a T-piece
to accommodate the unnecessary luxury of a pressure gauge (both parts
from http://www.pressureguage.co.uk
c.£33 delivered). The low loss connector made by Schrader (possibly
cheaper source) came from http://www.prosol.co.uk
c.£50 delivered. The connector's thread is 3/8 UNF. Many oil guns
are available from well under £20 (but I already had one), finding
one with the 3/8 UNF gives you a straightforward screw together tool.
I added a couple of turns of plummer's PTFE tape to proof each screw connection.
Hydraulic threads tend to be British Standard Pipe (BSP) or Unified Fine
Thread (UNF) The common sizes of which can be bought in one tap &
die kit from Machine Mart (kit CHT304 includes the metric range as well
as BSP and UNF c.£38).
This beast can probably pump watery liquid well over 2000 psi safely,
it is rated at c.6000 for oil - I only need c.400 psi for the Fs - so
I can pump them up in the cold weather and get much better headlight beam
pattern, then let them back down again in the summer.
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2003 enhenced with Liquid Lever connector :)
Gas Chuck (Accumulator Charging Valve)
Parker 0.305-32 UNS (No 8708150000 )
Low loss connector
from PROSOL
(found by Chris B. © 2008 )
LLC4690 for about 30 Pound
plus
Lumatic Oil Gun (Type OLGH/CV does 8.500 psi (600 bar)) and hydraulic
bits from http://www.pirtek.co.uk/
Jon used the Lumatic
E500
basic cheap one from SKS
valve (Amazon)
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©
1998-2001 Carl the DIY suggestion came from Sweden.
© 2000-2001 Dieter
DIY
Construction works hydraulic jack. ... good for 300 bar ;)
Modified due to the hints on this site for JM in Argentina. Looks great
and much better then those below here.
Valter Fernandes, fellow F'er from Portrugal used an
old hand pump to open Aircraft's engine cowls.
Mmachined adaptor to fit on the hydragas nipples and throughout cleaned
the pump and flushed the circuit, till it was free from any oil.
Jjust had to imerse one end to the bottle and to screw the other end to
the hydragas system.
© 2000 Don Liang DIY
latest product is a test pressure
pump for plumbers, like this one up to 30bar (480psi)
together with a cheap low los valve for bicycle dampers like this one
from SKS for USP/MSP pump
An adaption of the SKS valve to the testpump needs to be sourced.
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According to the paperwork
that comes with the Hydragas pump, these are the cars with Hydragas and
Hydralastic suspension and their front wheel trim heights... [Thanks to
Andy]
Hydragas
type |
Trim
Front |
Height
rear |
Tol. |
Pressure |
connector
location |
comments |
MGF |
368mm |
358mm |
10mm |
450lb/sq"
approx. |
under
bonnet |
temperature
correction:
0,6mm per degree (17° C)
front linked to rear
(LH or RH) |
MGF
Trophy |
348mm |
338mm |
10mm |
450lb/sq"
approx. |
under bonnet |
temperature
correction:
0,6mm per degree (17° C)
front linked to rear
(LH or RH) |
Metro 1980
- 1990 |
12 7/8" |
12 6/8" |
3/8" |
420lb/sq" |
under bonnet
& front of rear L/H wheel |
independent
front suspension units; rear units linked |
Metro
1990 onwards |
341mm |
N/A |
10mm |
N/A lb/sq |
under bonnet
& front of rear L/H wheel |
independent
front suspension units; rear units linked
|
Ambassador
|
14 1/2" |
N/A |
1/4" |
350lb/sq appox. |
under bonnet |
|
Allegro to
car no. 226629 |
14 3/4" |
N/A |
3/8" |
340lb/sq appox. |
under bonnet |
|
Allegro car
no. 226629 onwards |
14 1/2" |
N/A |
3/8" |
340lb/sq appox. |
under bonnet |
|
Maxi - 1970
Maxi 1971 - 1977
Maxi 1978- |
14 1/8" |
N/A |
3/8" |
245lb/sq"
225lb/sq"
230lb/sq" |
under small
panels on boot floor |
|
Hydralastic
type |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mini up to
Dec 1965 |
13" |
13 1/2" |
1/4" |
263lb/sq" |
under
rear of car |
|
Mini from Dec
1965 |
12 5/8" |
13 1/8" |
1/4" |
282lb/sq" |
|
Mini Clubman
|
13 1/2" |
13 1/2" |
1/4" |
292lb/sq" |
|
Princess |
14 1/2" |
N/A |
3/8" |
350lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
Princess Mk1
|
13 5/8" |
N/A |
3/8" |
230lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
Austin/Morris/Wolseley
1800/2200 |
14 7/8" |
N/A |
1/4" |
245lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
Austin, Morris,
Wolseley, Riley |
13 5/8" |
N/A |
3/8" |
205lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
MkII 1100 &
1300 with arch rear spring |
14" |
N/A |
3/8" |
195lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
MG Normal Air
(I assume this is the 1100 / 1300) |
13 5/8" |
N/A |
3/8" |
220lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
1300 GT |
13 5/8" |
N/A |
|
205lb/sq" |
under bonnet |
|
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Names for
methylated spirits around the world
In the UK, Australia, and New Zealand, metho is called methylated spirits.
In the US it is called denatured alcohol. In Europe, it may be called
spirits, brennspiritus (Germany), alcool a bruler (France), sprit (Norway),
spiritus (Netherlands). It is generally available in hardware stores,
supermarkets, service stations, and camping/outdoors stores.
mixture of 1/3 white spirit + 2/3 pure coolant gives useful stuff for
an MGF suspension
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Notice:
Never store Hydragas Fluid in a 5l metal can. p/n GZS1486 ( GZS2000, VDS000030
) Hydralastic fluid
They will rust ! This are two images from an original can.
(c) Carl, from Sweden
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